$$$$


24
Jun 10

Phat in Shanghai: Mistral

Mistral is a new Spanish tapas restaurant that just opened up on Fuxing Lu, in a space that used to be occupied by Marrakesh. It’s owned by the same people who make the quality cocktails at Tara 57. The whitewashed interiors are simple and elegant, and I was pleased that we had snagged a table on their lovely terrace. Unfortunately, Mistral’s only menu is written on a blackboard on the first floor in Spanish. So if you are upstairs, make sure you order your dinner before being seated to avoid that extra trip. I thought this blackboard ordering system was a notch above Franck’s on the pretentiousness scale, but after conversing with the charming and knowledgeable chef, I thought maybe this isn’t so bad. Still, Mistral could think of way to keep their “Spanish-style” menu intact without having to greatly inconvenience their diners.

mistral fried goat cheese shanghai china
After we ordered, we headed back upstairs and enjoyed the warm Shanghai evening on the terrace. Our first tapas dish came – three small balls of goat cheese, drizzled with honey and served with a bit of carmelized onion. The goat cheese was absolutely delicious – creamy, rich, robust, and perfectly complimented by the sweetness of the honey and the onions. My only complaint was that at $60RMB for a 2 person portion, they could have thrown and extra ball of cheese on the plate. How are 2 people supposed to split 3 tiny balls of cheese anyways?

codfish with raspberry aioli mistral shanghai china
We also went for the codfish with raspberry aioli. The creamy, slightly sweet and tangy raspberry sauce was a great accompaniment to the white fish. Delicious, but the 2 person order clocked in at $75RMB. Order wisely.

mussels shiitake saffron cream mistral shanghai china
I absolutely love mussels, so I couldn’t resist ordering the mussels with shiitake in saffron cream ($45RMB). I had imagined that they would be in the shell, so I was a bit disappointed when the dish arrived bearing the equivalent of 2 whole mussels – chopped! Nonetheless, the mussels and shiitake were fantastic, the sauce was creamy, earthy, and flavorful.

mistral shanghai china paella a banda
After the three tapas came and went, I was still desperately hungry and praying that our 2 person paella ($150RMB) would be portioned a little more generously. Luckily it was. The paella arrived on our table piping hot and was studded with squid, clams, and mussels. The rice was cooked perfectly, and came with a dish of raspberry sauce on the side. The paella was fragrant and delicious, but it did have small chunks of uncooked garlic throughout, making date night a little less fun…

Mistral is a great new addition to the French Concession. Even though the meal wasn’t perfect and there were several service hiccups (the table next to us repeatedly asked for their tortilla espanola – it was delivered to our table, not theirs, ten minutes later), I think Mistral has a good thing going on. The chef is obviously talented and his kitchen is churning out near-perfect dishes. With a lowered price point (both tapas and wine) and more staff training, I think Mistral could become a neighborhood gem.

Enjoy!

Mistral
133 Fuxing Xi Lu at Yongfu Lu
复兴西路133号近永福路
+86 21 6433 4261


29
Apr 10

Phat in Shanghai: Haiku by Hatsune

Last night I was really in the mood for sushi. Normally, the fresh, fatty toro and sweet scallops at Tenya fit the bill perfectly, but I had a strange craving for that California-style Japanese fusion sushi that comes in big fat rolls topped with 5 different kinds of fish. Haiku was the answer.

We walked over to Haiku and luckily it was a slow night, no reservations needed. The restaurant’s interiors are quite nice – well lit, modern decor, a nice blonde sushi bar. We took two seats at the bar and pondered the menu… they have about a million specialty rolls, featuring any and all combinations of fried shrimp or soft-shell crab, avocado, eel, and fresh fish, topped with some kind of sauce and a cute name. The prices are a little high, hovering around $75RMB a roll, but the portions are good.

haiku shanghai pimp my roll
We decided on the Pimp My Roll ($78RMB) which came with avocado, deep fried soft-shell crab, and grilled fish over the top. It came covered in lots of mystery creamy sauces and green onions. This roll was really tasty and definitely satisfied my craving for fusion sushi! Was it pimpin? Yes.

king kong roll haiku shanghai china
Next up we had the King Kong Roll, which was a gigantic maki roll stuffed with tuna salad, yellowtail sashimi, avocado, and snow crab. This roll was not that good. Truth be told, we ordered it because it was billed as “the biggest roll yet.” Damn our greedy eyes. The tuna salad was rather bland, and the flavor of raw fish was completely lost in the roll. You couldn’t taste any of the individual ingredients, especially when the maki was dipped in the spicy wasabi mayo that garnished the plate. Tough, this one roll cost $98RMB! We also enjoyed salmon & avocado handrolls at $38RMB a piece. Not bad. But I think the minced tuna handrolls at Tenya are only $28… and I prefer those!

tempura soba haiku shanghai china
To finish the meal, we shared a big bowl of hot soba ($40RMB) swimming in perfectly-flavored broth and topped with a shrimp tempura and a couple battered and fried vegetables.

Haiku is a nice place to go when you are craving fusion sushi. Next time I go, I’ll be sure to stick with the specialty rolls that use cooked fish – the raw fish just gets lost.

Enjoy!

Haiku by Hatsune 隐泉之语
28B Taojiang Lu at Hengshan Lu
桃江路28号近衡山路
+86 21 6445-0021


10
Mar 10

Phat in Shanghai: Dr. Wine

If you wander up Fumin Lu just north of the laowai trifecta (Cantina Agave, Noodle Bull, Bistro Burger), you’ll reach newcomer Dr. Wine. It’s a cute 2 level spot that serves up a large selection of wines and a short menu of eats.

dr wine shanghai
Wines start at $38RMB a glass, and Dr. Wine also offers pizzas, croque monsieurs, and charcuterie. We opted for the $198 charcuterie plate. It was a nice spread, I liked the addition of gherkins, balsamic, and honey for the brie. But honestly, I’d rather mosey on over to Franck and drop $210 for the small portion of the grande charcuterie.

We also split a croque monsieur which was quite nice – came with a well dressed salad.

Enjoy!

Dr. Wine
177 Fumin Lu at Julu Lu
富民路177号 近巨鹿路
+86 21 5403-5717


25
Feb 10

Phat in Shanghai: Franck.. Pt II

I have to sadly say that the worst dining experience of my life was had at Franck, the french brasserie in Ferguson Lane. Now, the food was fucking fantastic – but the service was spit-in-your-face awful. As I left Franck that first time, I swore to myself I would never again patronize this establishment. But then I remembered that perfectly cooked, juicy, ridiculously delicious steak and realized its probably the best in Shanghai and goddammit… I would be back.

STEAK > Principles, every time.

And that’s how I once again found myself face to face with the server from hell… who was quite cordial and actually remembered us. But unfortunately we were not seated in our good friend’s serving area – so naturally the service was impeccable.

charcuterie franck shanghai
Sorry for the poor photo, its dark in there. We started the night with a downsized portion of the grande charcuterie, an amazing spread of foie gras, a terrine de campagne, an onion chutney, and a variety of meats. Delicious. The foie gras was probably the best I’ve ever had – light and airy, with a rich, buttery texture. I would love to come back for just the charcuterie and a glass of wine.

The steak was fabulous as usual. You can read about Franck’s steak in my previous post, here.

Enjoy!

$$$$
Franck
Ferguson Lane
376 Wukang Lu at Hunan Lu
+86 158 2167 6767


15
Dec 09

Phat in Hong Kong: Sai Kung Town I

sai kung
Sai Kung Town is a former fishing village in Hong Kong’s New Territories. Famous for their seafood, they even have a street called Hoi Seen Gai, or Seafood Street! I knew I had to go, especially since Michelin recently awarded a star to a local restaurant called Loaf On (worst romanization ever, its called Look Fook in Cantonese).

We jumped on a minibus in Kwun Tong, Kowloon and about 30 minutes later we were there. Loaf On is situated at the very end of the boardwalk, past all the fancy seafood displays and outdoor restaurants. It was torture walking past other diners as they were digging into plates piled high with fresh clams and whole fish. But soon enough we made our way to our destination.

Loaf On is a very small restaurant – only four family-size round tables. They didn’t have any impressive seafood displays so I was a bit confused as to what all the hoopla was about. In my mind, the more impressive the seafood display, the more delicious the food! Right? Well, we flipped through the menu, which was actually the opposite of impressive and very lacking in the seafood department. But how could this be? I had read about the Michelin-worthy fish, which did not make an appearance on the menu. Turns out you can order any type of seafood you like, and Loaf On will run out to the boardwalk to buy your goods. We settled on a whole grouper and three mantis shrimp to start.

Steamed grouper
The steamed grouper, or sek ban, was well done. Perfectly cooked so the flesh was silky. Although this dish was delicious, can’t really say there was anything special about it. I think my mom makes it better! But then again, I may be biased.

Salt & pepper mantis shrimp
Salt & Pepper mantis shrimp. I’ve had this dish several times now, and this was by far the best rendition. Served on a bed of crunchy bits, the shrimp were well seasoned so that every bite was salty, garlicky, spicy. Yum.

mantis shrimp roe
One of the shrimp was filled with roe. Usually I rejoice at the sight of bright orange eggs, but I think mantis shrimp roe is just not that good. Its quite tough and doesn’t have a lot of flavor. It actually ruined the springy, lobster-like texture of the mantis shrimp. In the end, I picked out the roe and chomped down on the shrimp alone.

osmanthus jelly with goji berries
A lovely dessert of osmanthus flower jelly and goji berries. Very light and refreshing. And pretty!

We only had a few dishes at Loaf On in order to save our stomachs for the rest of our eating adventure. But still the bill was quite expensive – came to $200HKD (~$26USD) a head. It’s a nice restaurant – maybe a good place to take your parents, but there are much better deals to be found around Sai Kung.

$$$$
Loaf On
49 See Cheung Street
Sai Kung Town, Hong Kong
+852 2792 9966


11
Aug 09

Phat in Madrid: Casa Botín

This epic meal took place in March 2009.

Last year I had an amazing opportunity to visit Madrid Spain and dine at the legendary Botín – aka the oldest restaurant in the world, est. 1725! Amazing. I was delighted to join the ranks of Hemingway and Goya in trying Botin’s specialty – the Castillian suckling pig, called cochinillo asado.

botin madrid spain cochinillo
The restaurant is a certified tourist trap, but nonethless the food and the interiors are amazing. The low ceilings, winding staircases, and exposed stone walls really make you feel like you’re in a different century. Once you enter, you can peer inside the kitchen and check out the chef roasting up delicious little piglets for dinner.

botin cochinillo madrid spain
The cochinillo (£22.50 / $30USD) is really fantastic. The portion is pretty generous – you get two hunks of amazingly juicy and tender pork and some potatoes. The meat is just so flavorful and spurts juice when you touch it.. and the skin! The skin is thick and crispy, roasted until it cracks. I loved that they preserve the integrity of the porky flavor by serving this dish simply with the pan juices and salt on the side.

botin cake tarta de la casa madrid spain
We also tried Botin’s signature dessert – a cake layered with pastry cream and topped meringue called “tarta botin.” On paper it sounded really good, how can you go wrong with pastry cream? But the cake itself had an overwhelming taste of egg – I felt like I should have topped it with tabasco and called it breakfast.

All in all – an amazing dinner. An epic meal I’ll always remember!

Casa Botín
Calle de Cuchilleros, 17
Madrid, Spain
+34 913 664 21
www.botin.es