December, 2009


30
Dec 09

Phat in San Francisco: The Best Bowl of Wontons in SF

Sorry guys – its not at one of SF’s many restaurants, but at the Casa de Ley! When we get together over a mountain of meat, only good things can come from it.

wonton wrapping
YOU NO WRAP, YOU NO EAT! My parents make the wonton filling with minced pork and shrimp, dried shiitake mushrooms, and chopped woodear fungus. The mushrooms lend flavor, while the woodear gives each bite a delightful crunch.

wonton wrapping
A perfect wonton.

wonton soup base
The wonton soup base. Dad boils down shrimp shells and dried shiitake mushrooms to make a simple broth. He pours this over soy sauce, hoisin, sesame oil, chopped green onions, and minced cilantro, resulting in a light and flavorful MSG-free broth.

perfect wonton soup
Ah, the perfect bowl of wonton soup. At my house, we do this in a huge communal bowl in the middle of the table and everyone serves themselves. There are hardly any leftovers by the time we are done!

noodles
This dry noodle dish is intensely flavorful, but deceptively simple. My dad boils some ready-cooked egg noodles, drains them, and tosses them in a wok with toasted sesame seeds and chopped green onions. Hoisin & soy are added to create this super fragrant noodle. You can toss this into your soup for wonton mein, but i like to eat them dry – the flavor is so good!


29
Dec 09

Phat in San Francisco: Taqueria Cancun

I’m really lucky to call San Francisco home because its a city with amazing food culture. Seafood, good wines, artisanal bread, banging Chinese, and legit Mexican all crammed into 7×7 square miles.

One thing I always have to do when I’m in town is have a burrito. Not just ANY burrito – a San Francisco burrito.

The best burrito in SF is definitely a touchy subject for a lot of locals. Some will insist on Gordos (obvs you’ve never had REAL Mexican food before), some praise La Taqueria (overpriced, skinny-ass, sloppily-wrapped burritos), others hail El Farolito (one of the best – but a little greasy).

taqueria cancun san francisco
The best burrito in San Francisco? Taqueria Cancun. Without a doubt. And what makes this burrito so special? Its big, its tightly-wrapped, and its got the perfect sour cream to cheese to rice to meat ratio. But what really won me over is the liberal use of avocado. Yes, glorious, bright-green, silky smooth, California-sun-ripened avocado. They use half of the precious west coast fruit in a single burrito. Not mashed, or mixed up in a guacamole, but scooped out of the skin with a spoon, so you get nice, big chunks of creamy goodness with every bite.

san francisco burrito
Now that you’ve been schooled, go forth… order a super burrito with all the fixin’s (just $6), a glass of icy, cinnamon-y horchata or the daily agua fresca – and enjoy. Free chips and super spicy salsa too – this ain’t no chipotle! I like to take my goodies over three blocks to Dolores park and enjoy them while I’m soaking up the view of downtown SF – it’s the most amazing San Francisco experience ever.

$
Taqueria Cancun
2288 Mission Street at 19th St.
San Francisco, CA 94110
+01 415-252-9560


29
Dec 09

Phat in San Francisco: Merry Xmas

Merry Christmas, or Feliz Navidad from the Ley familia!

salsa mexicana
Tio Victor’s salsa mexicana. One habanero + one jalapeno = some spicy ass shit!

xmas turkey
The festive bird roasted by my Tio Paco. A-mazing. The juiciest, most tender turkey I’ve had in a very long time.

xmas plate
The quintessential xmas plate at the Casa de Ley.

merry xmas cake
My mom made this lovely cake. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture until the knife was already in it! haha! Mixed fruit with fresh whipped cream on sponge cake. Light, airy, delicious – and very Asian style!

Hope your holidays were merry and bright!


26
Dec 09

Phat in Shanghai: el Cóctel

Got a chance to check out El Willy’s new bar on Yongfu Lu last weekend. It was really nice – well done interiors, good atmosphere, quality drinks made with hand-cut ice and house made juices. Luckily for me, it’s just down the street!

el coctel shanghai

Expect some amazing drinks (spiced rum treacle – $68 RMB), and a variety of sandwiches (emmental & ham, goat cheese & eggplant) on its soft opening menu. Congrats Willy!

For a closer look, check out Ado’s write-up on Fatlace.

$$$
el Cóctel
2F, 47 Yongfu Lu
at Fuxing Lu


22
Dec 09

Phat in Shanghai: Sushi Oyama


Photographs by Adrian Lai

The omakase at Oyama is one of my favorite meals of all time. (Peter Luger & In ‘N Out are up there too!) Oyama is this perfect little 14-seat restaurant above El Willy. I am so charmed by this place, all the little details just culminate into a seriously perfect dining experience. I love the jazz playing softly, the comfy oversized stools surrounding the perfectly-lit sushi bar, how all the plates and cups are unique. Also, the service is impeccable; the attentive kimono-clad ladies keep your sake cup filled, while the amiable master sushi chefs take care of the menu for you. And the sushi? It’s to die for – the seafood is airflown daily from Japan, resulting in a super fresh and varied omakase. In fact, the fish here is so good it ruined top-ranked Sushi Yasuda for me!

sushi at oyama, shanghai
We started our journey to sushi heaven with a small cup of intensely flavorful clam soup, followed by a trio of sashimi; a single scallop gently flavored with lime, flounder, and squid. The squid was really delicious – it was crunchier and finished with an almost creamy texture. The wasabi at Oyama is grated in-house, and really gets up your nose.

monkfish liver, oyama shanghai
Ankimo, or Monkfish liver. A first for me – and wow was it delicious. Creamy, silky smooth, subtle flavor, and light as a mousse. Really fantastic, one of my favorites for the night.

sushi, oyama shanghai
Toro and maguro. The thin cut, fat-marbled toro just melts in your mouth. In between the sushi & sashimi, the omakase offered little tastes like seaweed salad with slimy grated nagaimo root, a marinated raw oyster, and grilled yellowtail cheek.

uni, oyama shanghai
What we came for! Uni. The first time I tried uni, it tasted like hot garbage. This is not the same kind of uni. The uni at Oyama is a golden mustard color, creamy, and melts in your mouth. The flavor is rich and intense – the best I’ve ever had!

sushi oyama shanghai
We told our chef what we liked and he combined it all into this special dish for us. Minced toro, uni, salmon roe, and a quail egg topped over rice. Mixed with the house-made soy sauce and wasabi, this little rice bowl was a whole lot of flavor. A real flavor “bomb” – as he called it.

Thank you so much Ado for the lovely birthday dinner!

$$$$$ – $800RMB/person
Sushi Oyama
2/F, 20 Donghu Lu at Huaihai Lu
东湖路20号2楼, 近淮海路
Shanghai
+86 21 5404 7705

(Reservations only – snag a bar seat, bring a date)


20
Dec 09

Banh and Mi by Bao Nguyen

Check out this short documentary about the famed Vietnamese sandwiched filmed at An Choi in NYC. Gorgeous shots of the restaurant. Big ups to the An Choi boys on their continuing success!

Banh and Mi from Bao Nguyen on Vimeo.


20
Dec 09

Phat in Hong Kong: Under the Bridge Spicy Crab

Spicy Crab Under the Bridge. Under Crab Spicy Bridge. Spicy Bridge Under the Crab. Nahhh its “Under the Bridge Spicy Crab – and its a spot for really good eats in Wan Chai.

If you go, there are two things you absolutely must order.

under the bridge spicy crab fried tofu
The fried tofu – it’s got this amazing, dense, crunchy crust, and the inside is silken tofu – SO GOOD. Really, I am still dreaming of this tofu.

spicy crab
The eponymous dish – a nice fleshy crab cooked up with an incredible amount of minced garlic, green onions, and spicy chilis. Get it medium hot and it will burn your tongue off. Don’t forget the beeeer.

$$
Under the Bridge Spicy Crab
Shop 6-9, G/F
429 Lockhart Road
Wan Chai, Hong Kong
+856 2573 7698


20
Dec 09

Phat in Shanghai: Brunch at Azul Viva

Azul has the best brunch in Shanghai. It’s a Vargas spot and offers a fantastic brunch menu – featuring your favorite American staples and also a selection of more nouveau dishes with a Latin touch. Everything on the menu sounds amazing, I’ll have to try it all on subsequent visits!

Azul offers a 2 course brunch set with a beverage + coffee/tea for $130RMB ($19USD), which is a pretty good deal since the atmosphere is nice and sleek (white linens, ooh la la), the service prompt and polite, and the food is really delicious.

baked goods at azul
One of the reasons I love the brunch at Azul so much are the complimentary freshly baked scones and muffins. It’s hard to find quality Western-style baked goods (not talkin corn-buns here) in Shanghai, so I really appreciate this.

banana pancakes
Banana pancakes. Nice and fluffy, could use more banana flavor. Served with tons of whipped butter and a caramel sauce.

salmon crepes at azul
Really enjoyed this dish – smoked salmon crepes. The tiny bit of arugula on top + a squeeze of lemon juice just did it for me.

Azul gourmet omelette
This dish is billed as a “gourmet omelette” with roasted tomatoes, asparagus, and goat cheese. It’s really more of a frittata with mozz instead of goat, and the addition of olives. It’s yummy – tastes like pizza – but definitely not what you want when you’re expecting a goat cheese omelette.

azul breakfast
The Azul breakfast. Seems like a popular choice – wet scrambled eggs on top of a hash brown (don’t eat it, its crusty and too much garlic) accompanied by bacon and some juicy sausages. All rounded out with roasted pepper bruschetta. This plate really hits the spot when you just want a nice Sunday brunch.

azul brunch
Bellies full!

$$
Azul Viva
18 Dongping Lu at Wulumuqi Lu
东平路18号 近乌鲁木齐路
Shanghai
+86 6433 1172


19
Dec 09

Phat in Hong Kong: Beef Tendon Wonton Noodles

I know I’ve posted about this dish before… but I just can’t get enough beef tendon noodles! What can I say, I hold this dish really close to my heart. Plus, every establishment has their own twist on it – a heartier versus a lighter broth, more brisket than tendon, sliced meats over cubed meats, gai lan instead of iceberg lettuce.. and so on. I want to try it all!

beef tendon noodles
Before I got on the plane to head back to Shanghai, I was determined to have a nice steaming bowl of authentic Hong Kong beef tendon noodles. So I stopped by a noodle stall next to one I had tried previously with Gee. WOW. This was the perfect bowl of noodles. Probably the most perfect I’ve ever had in my life. My favorite variation uses ho fun, or wide rice noodles, and iceberg lettuce, and this is just what I got. Plus a lot more!

I love visiting these noodles stalls because they stew all their meats (beef tripe, tendon, brisket, etc) in this large metal pot with a wide lip. As the meats cook, the noodle wizards rest the meat on the lip and periodically pour a ladle of the five-spice stewing juice over them. They sit there bubbling away in their saucy glory until someone orders up a bowl, and the meat is chopped up and thrown in a bowl of hot broth and noodles. So basically, by the time the tendon reaches your mouth, its so tender it just melts.

The wontons in this bowl of noodles were purely an afterthought – I just threw them in because I get a little greedy when it comes to amazing canto food. I loved the addition of fried shallots and lots and lots of green onion. The price? Only $35HKD ($4.50USD) for a generously sized bowl + a ice cold coke. Thanks Hong Kong, I love you!

$
Bat Kee
91A -93B Fu Yan Street
near Yue Man Square
Kwun Tong
Kowloon, Hong Kong


16
Dec 09

Phat in Hong Kong: Pork Knuckle Wonton Noodles

Like I said in my last post, making the move to China has really turned me into an experimental eater. I didn’t even particularly like eggplant, to be honest. But all of a sudden I’m all over weird animal parts – especially when it comes to pork.

So when Gee asked if I wanted to eat pig’s knuckle noodles I was like, hells yes! We mosey’d on over to an area of Kowloon called Ngau Tau Kok (牛頭角) for some guaranteed good eats.

pork knuckle won ton noodles
Wow. This bowl of noodles was really amazing – everything from the richness of the broth to the bite of the egg noodles was just perfect. The pork knuckles were stewed until they were tender and a little sticky, and every bite washed down perfectly with the salty, slightly sweet beef broth. Yum.

There is something really special about won tons in Hong Kong. They are flavored with some kind of spice that is a little grainy but full of fantastic flavor. I’m not quite sure what it is because my parents always used dried shiitake mushrooms/woodear to flavor theirs. But Hong Kong wontons, man – they are good. The shrimp is always perfectly cooked so they are “chui,” or crispy, when you bite into them. Just how I like them.

$
Wang Hing Kee Noodle House
122A Ngau Tau Kok at Ding An St
Kowloon, Hong Kong
+856 2756 0898